A flight like no other. On AirKenya P2-852 from airstrip to airstrip through the African wilderness of the Maasai Mara.
| Departure | 17.12.2023 – 10:30 |
| Arrival | 17.12.2023 – 11:10 |
| Duration | 1:10 h |
| Delay | None |
| Aircraft type | Bombardier DHC 8-202 (Dash 8) |
| Class | Economy |
| Seats | free seating |
Content
Departure airport
We start our flight to Maasai Maras Keekorok Airstrip at Nairobi Wilson International Airport.
Next to the large international Jomo Kenyatta Airport, this is the smaller, more cozy airport from which short-haul flights and, above all, small aircraft take off to safari destinations.
The airport itself is structured differently than most others as there is no central terminal for all airlines departing; instead, each airline has its own check-in building. As a result, the area is rather sprawling, and we had to search a bit to find where we needed to go. Even the driver didn’t know exactly where AirKenya was departing from. But together, we managed to find it.
Arrival to the airport
The best way to get to Nairobi Wilson Airport is by car. Transportation prices in Kenya are very reasonable, and apart from the option of taking one of the small, crowded buses there, I don’t know how else you could get there.
Check-in & bag drop
When you arrive at the building, you have to walk across a small parking lot and pass your luggage through a scanner directly behind the entrance door. Immediately after the scanner, your luggage will be weighed! All of it together. All bags, suitcases, backpacks, and anything else you have with you. The total weight of your luggage must not exceed 15 kilograms. If your luggage is heavier, there is a fee of $5 per kilogram. So think carefully about what you take with you.
Incidentally, it was announced that “soft-sided bags” should be packed, which was not a problem for us and we were not checked and both had hard-shell suitcases with us. This seems to be just a requirement because the cargo space is very limited and soft bags can be loaded in a more space-saving manner.
A few meters further on, you will find yourself at the small check-in counter. We were greeted warmly there, and the employee processed everything quickly and easily. However, it was here that we learned that our flight was not a direct flight. This is because all flights to the Maasai Mara, regardless of the airline, are handled according to the following principle: we see who books which connection and then adjust our flight schedule and aircraft accordingly.
There are no real airports in the Mara, but rather – as the name “airstrip” suggests – only improved gravel strips that serve as landing strips. In addition, there are no paved roads inside the national park, which makes transportation to the lodges rather difficult. For this reason, there are several decentralized airstrips scattered throughout the Mara. And because not all airstrips need to be flown to, it is only decided on the day of the flight where to land and where not to. Accordingly, you will make frequent stops on your flight. The principle is more like that of a bus. The plane flies a certain route and passengers get off, as others get on.
The procedure only became clear to us during the flight. So you always have to make sure you get off at the right stop! Of course, the charming flight attendant will check on you, and if in doubt, you will be called by name. And yes – that happened on our flight…
Waiting area & lounge
But back to the airport. Once you’ve checked in, you can pop into the small shop or take a seat on the ground floor by the gate (yes, there’s only one!). One floor up, there’s a lounge, which is also used as a waiting area. There’s a nice little coffee bar where you can buy breakfast or snacks. The view from here is great and the furnishings are very comfortable. We were traveling on the largest aircraft of the fleet, which was already waiting on the apron to be boarded. Interestingly, the boarding pass also shows the aircraft identification number so that there is no confusion about which plane you have to board.
Boarding
All passengers are called for boarding via announcement, and boarding passes are briefly checked at the only exit. And since our plane was parked directly in front of the terminal, it was really only a few meters from the boarding gate.
Welcome
As we arrived at the plane, we were asked to board the stairs only one at a time – which I found kind of cute. Inside the cabin, we were greeted by the extremely friendly flight attendant. Were handed a small bottle of water and allowed to take a mint candy.
Seating on the plane is open. Interestingly, I found this much more relaxed than on European low-cost airlines. In fact, there weren’t that many empty seats.
Start & Routing
The taxi was very short, of course, and we were airborne in no time. The flight attendant explained the principle of the individual stops again and listed the airstrips we would be flying to one after the other. It was only then that we realized that our stop would be the fourth and last.
The first stop, Mara North, took about 25 minutes. At this point, the journey still felt like a normal flight. We flew above the clouds and the flight was calm and uneventful. After that, however, the individual stops were only a maximum of 8 minutes apart. Meaning that we only flew a few hundred meters high and the calm was over.
To me it felt great. Very exciting and so close to the origins of aviation. It simply felt like real work for the pilots and had nothing to do with glamorous flying and luxury of regular aviation. Fabi, however, didn’t like it at all, and unfortunately his stomach couldn’t handle it very well either.
The other stops on our flight were Kichwa Tembo, Mara Serena, and finally Keekorok Airstrip.
Cabin & Seat
The Bombardier DHC 8-202 (Dash 8) had been around for quite a few years, and the old lady looked it. A little worn, but still dignified.
The seats were arranged in a 2-2 configuration and spaced reasonably well apart. The obligatory mesh pocket was attached to the back of the front seat, along with a fold-down table, of course. The overhead storage space was also delightfully antiquated and not particularly large.
Entertainment
Well, there is no modern entertainment system, of course and only an airline magazine was available at each seat. However, I must also say that the real entertainment takes place outside the window. Shortly after takeoff, you fly over Nairobi National Park, and we spotted our first giraffe from above just one minute after takeoff. I almost cried with joy! And on the short flights from one airstrip to the next, you fly so low that, with a bit of luck, you can see some of the Mara’s wildlife before you even go on your first safari! So, keep looking out the window on this flight! It’s certainly worth it.
Lavatory
A very small and rather outdated toilet is located at the very back of the aircraft, right next to the door.
Service
On this flight, the service is limited to assistance from the flight attendant when boarding and disembarking, as well as support in getting off at the right airstrip. Interestingly, in addition to the flight attendant, there is always a technician on board who is on hand if a technical problem arises. There is also a baggage handler who loads and unloads the suitcases onto the airstrips.
Arrival at the airstrip
As you arrive, you walk down the stairs directly to the airstrip. And the feeling is really crazy. You’re standing in the middle of the African wilderness on a gravel runway in front of an airplane. I, for one, found it utterly surreal. You simply collect your luggage yourself. To do this, we walked around the back of the plane and had our suitcases handed to us directly from the luggage hatch. Kind of like on a bus.
Keekorok Airstrip
Keekorok Airstrip (like all the others) is simply a gravel runway in the Kenyan wilderness. There is only a covered open waiting area with benches, a toilet block, and a small hut where you have to purchase your national park ticket.
Otherwise, there are just a bunch of Jeeps picking up lodge guests. Around the airstrip itself, there’s nothing but a whole lot of Africa!
Incidentally, the plane takes off again quite quickly, giving you the unique opportunity to get closer than ever before to the start of an aircraft.
From here, we continued on to a truly spectacular stay at the brand-new JW Marriott Masai Mara Lodge. Be sure to check it out and read this review of a truly unforgettable experience right in the middle of the African wilderness!
Return flight
On the return flight, we thought we would be the last to board and fly directly to Nairobi without any stopovers. But no — we were quite very wrong on that. We made the three stopovers again. This time, however, the air conditioning was broken, and we sweated profusely.
Incidentally, when boarding the full plane, we were assigned the first row. However, this row is installed backwards, creating a 4-seater similar to that on a bus, which led to some awkward looks from the guests sitting across from us. But it also gave us a completely new and unfamiliar flying experience as well as interesting views.
Conclusion
The flight was just unique. Yes, the plane is old. And yes, the flight with the stops is exhausting. But I definitely don’t want to say that it was a “once in a lifetime experience” because I would love to do something like that again. The view is incredible, and the feeling of landing in the African wilderness in a large commercial aircraft is somehow totally crazy. In short: I found it incredibly exciting. Fabi, not so much though… 😉
Rating
We award this flight 8 out of 10 points. This time, however, I can’t really pinpoint individual points. In my opinion, normal standards don’t apply here. A small airline in Africa is different from a global player!
The terminal and check-in were great. Everything was super easy. The flight experience was super exciting and at least there was water to drink.
I didn’t like the air conditioning situation on the return flight, and I would have liked the windows not to be quite so scratched and yellowed as then the view of the Mara from above would have been even better.
Recommendation?
If you don’t want to spend 5 to 8 hours driving through the wilderness, you have no choice but to get on a plane. Okay. Or rent a helicopter. There’s only one thing left to do: close your eyes and go for it, or do what I did… Look forward to an exciting and extraordinary flight.
YouTube Review
Fabi has also uploaded a detailed review of these two flights to YouTube, complete with spectacular footage taken directly from the airstrip.
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